I know I haven't posted in ages, so here we go again!
With the advent of 6th edition I've played a grand total of 1 game since it came out. In the meantime, I've been running Pathfinder and painting my boyfriend's WarMachine miniatures. However, our Reaper Bones miniatures shipment just came in last week, and I've decided that some of this stuff requires modding.
I've bought lots and lots of disks to attach them to for basing, I've picked up for lbs of Apoxie Sculpt from Amazon, along with some new tools for working the stuff.
I've been running the Rise of the Runelords Anniversary Edition campaign since September, and it's been a lot of fun. My group is about halfway through the book, so it's still going to take a while for them to get through all the material.
That having been said, I want to play with some Apoxie putty. My boyfriend picked up the Kaladrax dragon. Instead of a pile of treasure or top of a building, he wants it to look like lava coming down. So this will be a lot of fun to document. I've already grabbed so much lava material photos from the internet to use as source material I had to create a new folder on my desktop.
I'm really excited to be doing this one. Also, just looking through the rest of the material in the Pathfinder campaign makes me want to sculpt all new minis. :D
Sunday, July 21, 2013
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
Custom Flier Terrain Concept
I've been putting together and painting my gargoyle brood (approximately 20 models). I've heard a lot of complaints about the flying bases and how unstable they are. My concept is to create a solid custom base and still use the clear pole that came with the model.
I think I will use the clear base as the basis for my custom terrain (ie. forming the air-dry clay right on top of it). I am working on making some crystals to put into the clay, to add variety.
I scoured the web for crystal ideas and everything seemed too large a scale or too small (the large being insulation foam from a hardware store (the pink stuff), and the too small being made from sprue). So I had this idea... I had a whole bunch of sea glass in a bag in my storage unit left over from a different project. The bag was about $7 at Michael's craft store. (I just searched for it at Michael's but couldn't find it). A place like this would probably work. (Search for 'bag of sea glass' for other results).
Anyways, I have made a rather thick wash from some purple paints (along with metallics and pearlizing medium) and then started picking out the smaller pieces from the bag. As a note: Sea glass bags can have lots of glass dust in them, be careful and wash your hands when you are done, or, wear gloves. Some of the pieces will not be completely edge-free. I simply discarded the ones I thought might be dangerous to use on a board with a lot of handling. I got out two paper plates. One to dump part of the bag into, and one to sort the pieces I wanted onto.
Once I filled one paper plate, I pulled out a nice largish brush (for miniatures modelling, it was large, to everyone else, it was a small flat brush - not even a centimeter wide). I made sure to swirl the water a lot, especially stirring up the bottom (with all the particles in it) got rid of some of the liquid on the side of the bowl (made out of a warmachine blister pack - so I could close it and not worry about the kitties drinking from it), and started coating the side facing up on all of the glass pieces.
That done, I'm currently letting them dry. Just remember, it won't be perfect. However, we will see how well this works. If it works really well, I'll eventually post a page tutorial on it. I've been taking pictures, but since they're on my phone, I haven't uploaded them yet.
Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
I think I will use the clear base as the basis for my custom terrain (ie. forming the air-dry clay right on top of it). I am working on making some crystals to put into the clay, to add variety.
I scoured the web for crystal ideas and everything seemed too large a scale or too small (the large being insulation foam from a hardware store (the pink stuff), and the too small being made from sprue). So I had this idea... I had a whole bunch of sea glass in a bag in my storage unit left over from a different project. The bag was about $7 at Michael's craft store. (I just searched for it at Michael's but couldn't find it). A place like this would probably work. (Search for 'bag of sea glass' for other results).
Anyways, I have made a rather thick wash from some purple paints (along with metallics and pearlizing medium) and then started picking out the smaller pieces from the bag. As a note: Sea glass bags can have lots of glass dust in them, be careful and wash your hands when you are done, or, wear gloves. Some of the pieces will not be completely edge-free. I simply discarded the ones I thought might be dangerous to use on a board with a lot of handling. I got out two paper plates. One to dump part of the bag into, and one to sort the pieces I wanted onto.
Once I filled one paper plate, I pulled out a nice largish brush (for miniatures modelling, it was large, to everyone else, it was a small flat brush - not even a centimeter wide). I made sure to swirl the water a lot, especially stirring up the bottom (with all the particles in it) got rid of some of the liquid on the side of the bowl (made out of a warmachine blister pack - so I could close it and not worry about the kitties drinking from it), and started coating the side facing up on all of the glass pieces.
That done, I'm currently letting them dry. Just remember, it won't be perfect. However, we will see how well this works. If it works really well, I'll eventually post a page tutorial on it. I've been taking pictures, but since they're on my phone, I haven't uploaded them yet.
Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
Monday, June 4, 2012
PolyCon
Making arrangements to go to the PolyCon gaming convention June 22-24 for a weekend of RPGs and Tabletop war gaming! PolyCon is located in San Luis Obispo, California and is packed with awesome gaming. It's a very small convention, but it's got a great staff, GMs and attendees.
I know for a fact that there's a Warhammer Fantasy and 40k tournament, as well as one for Warmachine, and they're doing some RPGA stuff as well. They've got a vendor's room, attached to the open gaming pit, giant Settler's of Catan, as well as LARPs. They have an annual Independent Game Developer award, but the submission period for this year has already ended.
There's a free BBQ Saturday with your badge, and an ice cream social. $35 at the door for the whole weekend with daily badges available, as well. So, if you are anywhere in easy driving distance, it's a great con to go to! Hotels can be a bit pricy, since it's central coast California in summer, so plan a little bit ahead if you can.
I know for a fact that there's a Warhammer Fantasy and 40k tournament, as well as one for Warmachine, and they're doing some RPGA stuff as well. They've got a vendor's room, attached to the open gaming pit, giant Settler's of Catan, as well as LARPs. They have an annual Independent Game Developer award, but the submission period for this year has already ended.
There's a free BBQ Saturday with your badge, and an ice cream social. $35 at the door for the whole weekend with daily badges available, as well. So, if you are anywhere in easy driving distance, it's a great con to go to! Hotels can be a bit pricy, since it's central coast California in summer, so plan a little bit ahead if you can.
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
Memorial Day Weekend...
So. John and I attended BayCon this weekend (I was working as staff in the Game Room). We were at the Santa Clara Convention Center for Fri-Sun (only part of Sunday... we had a very busy weekend). BayCon runs through Monday, but we had other plans.
As a note, BayCon is a sci-fi and fan convention, not a game convention, or an anime convention, etc. I mostly go because I have a lot of friends there. I think we may go to Kubla Con next year, which is a gaming convention. If you go to BayCon (and are over 21) check out the party floor! Also, the Klingon Slave Auction (for charity) is awesome!
I got to play some games while I was on shift, including Uno, team cribbage, and Cards Against Humanity (which as both hilarious and nasty at the same time). Cards Against Humanity is like adult Apples to Apples... and then some. I highly recommend it (but only if you have a rather twisted sense of humor, if you are easily offended, steer clear).
John got in a team game of 40k, where each player had 1500 points. It lasted most of a double shift (6 hours). Evil Mike (the head of the gaming department) had a really neat board setup where he had 1 foot square tiles that were a ship's interior. While there was no area terrain, there was plenty of cover and line of sight blockages, it also had a quite distinct science fiction atmosphere, which I feel a lot of the terrain I see generally lacks. (Also, it fit very nicely into a large green tub.)
I think I would like to emulate Evil Mike's design. I don't know how I'll do it yet, but it's an idea that I will put on the back burner. I'll let the idea simmer for a while.
Sunday, we went overt to Game Kastle to hang out with some friends. While we didn't get any 40k games in, we did get to see some pretty good ones. We also got in a nice game of Small World, which is always entertaining. I also got some work done on my Gargoyle Brood. I'll get pictures eventually.
Monday we grabbed a moving truck, packed up my San Jose storage unit, and moved it up to Sac. x_X Tuesday, we unpacked it into another storage unit up here, and now I'm exhausted. Time for more coffee, Diablo III, and food!
Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
As a note, BayCon is a sci-fi and fan convention, not a game convention, or an anime convention, etc. I mostly go because I have a lot of friends there. I think we may go to Kubla Con next year, which is a gaming convention. If you go to BayCon (and are over 21) check out the party floor! Also, the Klingon Slave Auction (for charity) is awesome!
I got to play some games while I was on shift, including Uno, team cribbage, and Cards Against Humanity (which as both hilarious and nasty at the same time). Cards Against Humanity is like adult Apples to Apples... and then some. I highly recommend it (but only if you have a rather twisted sense of humor, if you are easily offended, steer clear).
John got in a team game of 40k, where each player had 1500 points. It lasted most of a double shift (6 hours). Evil Mike (the head of the gaming department) had a really neat board setup where he had 1 foot square tiles that were a ship's interior. While there was no area terrain, there was plenty of cover and line of sight blockages, it also had a quite distinct science fiction atmosphere, which I feel a lot of the terrain I see generally lacks. (Also, it fit very nicely into a large green tub.)
I think I would like to emulate Evil Mike's design. I don't know how I'll do it yet, but it's an idea that I will put on the back burner. I'll let the idea simmer for a while.
Sunday, we went overt to Game Kastle to hang out with some friends. While we didn't get any 40k games in, we did get to see some pretty good ones. We also got in a nice game of Small World, which is always entertaining. I also got some work done on my Gargoyle Brood. I'll get pictures eventually.
Monday we grabbed a moving truck, packed up my San Jose storage unit, and moved it up to Sac. x_X Tuesday, we unpacked it into another storage unit up here, and now I'm exhausted. Time for more coffee, Diablo III, and food!
Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Got a new camera
So I just got my new 16 megapixel camera in the mail today. I am looking forward to taking more pictures and putting up more tutorials. Much more fun to come!
Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
Sunday, April 29, 2012
Pinning Miniature Models Tutorial
So I've had this baggie full of little Termagants who were all broken off at the toe... because they are the ones that were balanced on just one of their toes and have a tendency to break off at inopportune moments. So, grabbing some wire, a dremel tool, my trusty eye protectors, and some other stuff, I proceeded to set them all back together. Hopefully I did so in such a way that they won't fall apart again soon.
Please keep in mind that some glues are toxic and should have adult supervision. Also, wire shrapnel is bad for your eyes. Please always wear eye protection when working with metal cutters and files.
Materials Needed:
Thin wire
Miniatures to fix
Two part Epoxy (plastic glue will not hold to the metal, and super glue isn't great for long term hold)
Tools Needed:
Dremel with tiny cutting bit or drill with very small bit
Wire Cutters
Needle Nose Pliars
Toothpicks
Paper towels
Eye protection
--------------------------------------------
Take a look at your broken miniature.
Look at how it's supposed to attach. In my case, it was the toe of the termagant to the base. Other cases may be models that have broken off at the arm, leg, or head. The principle is the same for metal and plastic. We are going to make it so this bugger doesn't fall off again!
Look carefully, you may need to bend your wire (before you cut it!), to make it fit the shape of the limb you are attaching. I drill a little bit at a time, then insert the (uncut) wire, pull it out, drill again, until I feel the wire will hold well when the glue has dried.
Before cutting your wire:
Drill both pieces
Bend wire carefully if needed
When cutting your wire, make sure you are wearing eye protection of some kind, as the pieces are likely to go flying. (Having to get an eye X-Ray before getting an MRI because I took metal shop when I was younger makes for a bit of a hassle - not to mention the idea of metal slivers being pulled out of my eyes at high speed to due high strength magnetism sounds horrid!) To minimize the risk of this, hold your fingertip to the end of the wire, pressing it firmly to the table. Then trim it to the desired length. Make sure your finger isn't near the wire cutters!
Okay! We are going to mix some epoxy. Pull out your paper towel. Fold it in half a couple of times, so the epoxy doesn't soak through it. Make sure you have toothpicks nearby as well as the parts of the minis you are fixing.
At this point, you should have:
Two drilled minis parts
A very short length of wire
Your work area prepped
Mix a less-than-dime sized amount of epoxy and hardener with a toothpick. Take the body of your mini, and apply the epoxy to the hole you drilled. It doesn't really need to get inside the hole, inserting the wire will do that for you. When you feel like you have enough (which really is not a lot), insert the wire you cut previously. Wait for it to dry (if you model is going to be at an awkward angle while drying.
If it's vertical, and you aren't worried about it's balance while drying, go ahead and apply the epoxy to the other hole, and stand the model on it. Use your toothpick to smooth out the epoxy so it looks good on the model. Let dry.
Once your main body wire is set, mix another set of epoxy, and apply it to the base/head/arm, etc. Insert the now dry body wire, and prop it up so it dries correctly.
Notes:
You can do multiple models in this manner if you have an hour or so to do it in. Doing one model doesn't take nearly as long. You can drill them all, line them up, measure and attach all the wires as a set, then wait for them to dry, mix some more epoxy and do the attaching (this is what I did).
Make sure you have enough room, light, and extra toothpicks/paper towels.
------------------------------------------------------
And we are done! Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
Please keep in mind that some glues are toxic and should have adult supervision. Also, wire shrapnel is bad for your eyes. Please always wear eye protection when working with metal cutters and files.
Materials Needed:
Thin wire
Miniatures to fix
Two part Epoxy (plastic glue will not hold to the metal, and super glue isn't great for long term hold)
Tools Needed:
Dremel with tiny cutting bit or drill with very small bit
Wire Cutters
Needle Nose Pliars
Toothpicks
Paper towels
Eye protection
--------------------------------------------
Take a look at your broken miniature.
Look at how it's supposed to attach. In my case, it was the toe of the termagant to the base. Other cases may be models that have broken off at the arm, leg, or head. The principle is the same for metal and plastic. We are going to make it so this bugger doesn't fall off again!
Look carefully, you may need to bend your wire (before you cut it!), to make it fit the shape of the limb you are attaching. I drill a little bit at a time, then insert the (uncut) wire, pull it out, drill again, until I feel the wire will hold well when the glue has dried.
Before cutting your wire:
Drill both pieces
Bend wire carefully if needed
When cutting your wire, make sure you are wearing eye protection of some kind, as the pieces are likely to go flying. (Having to get an eye X-Ray before getting an MRI because I took metal shop when I was younger makes for a bit of a hassle - not to mention the idea of metal slivers being pulled out of my eyes at high speed to due high strength magnetism sounds horrid!) To minimize the risk of this, hold your fingertip to the end of the wire, pressing it firmly to the table. Then trim it to the desired length. Make sure your finger isn't near the wire cutters!
Okay! We are going to mix some epoxy. Pull out your paper towel. Fold it in half a couple of times, so the epoxy doesn't soak through it. Make sure you have toothpicks nearby as well as the parts of the minis you are fixing.
At this point, you should have:
Two drilled minis parts
A very short length of wire
Your work area prepped
Mix a less-than-dime sized amount of epoxy and hardener with a toothpick. Take the body of your mini, and apply the epoxy to the hole you drilled. It doesn't really need to get inside the hole, inserting the wire will do that for you. When you feel like you have enough (which really is not a lot), insert the wire you cut previously. Wait for it to dry (if you model is going to be at an awkward angle while drying.
If it's vertical, and you aren't worried about it's balance while drying, go ahead and apply the epoxy to the other hole, and stand the model on it. Use your toothpick to smooth out the epoxy so it looks good on the model. Let dry.
Once your main body wire is set, mix another set of epoxy, and apply it to the base/head/arm, etc. Insert the now dry body wire, and prop it up so it dries correctly.
Notes:
You can do multiple models in this manner if you have an hour or so to do it in. Doing one model doesn't take nearly as long. You can drill them all, line them up, measure and attach all the wires as a set, then wait for them to dry, mix some more epoxy and do the attaching (this is what I did).
Make sure you have enough room, light, and extra toothpicks/paper towels.
------------------------------------------------------
And we are done! Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
Monday, April 16, 2012
Gaming Swap Meet
Yesterday, John and I went to the Great Escape Games gaming swap meet in Sacramento. They have a great venue for gaming, and lots and lots of space. I highly recommend them if you are in the area.
I picked up a huge quantity of neat bases from Secret Weapon Miniatures that hadn't passed their quality assurance tests (they are amazingly rigorous in their QA, by the way). They were very cheap, and I enjoyed talking to their VP who was there manning the booth.
I ended up talking with him for a while, talking about the pros and cons of some of their design choices. It was a rather interesting discussion. If you want to stop by their blog, here is the link.
We also some some very well painted Tyranids in a very rich brown scheme (sorry, I didn't take a picture, I appreciated the art too much!) and some very interesting design ideas for some other Tyranids. I saw some Zoanthropes with Warrior heads and back fins that looked very cool, and some other 'nids that were painted to look like the Aliens from AVP which were black with neon green ichor.
I also picked up another box of Mawloc parts because it was untouched and on sale for 35% off. Who doesn't need more monstrous creature parts, after all?
Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
I picked up a huge quantity of neat bases from Secret Weapon Miniatures that hadn't passed their quality assurance tests (they are amazingly rigorous in their QA, by the way). They were very cheap, and I enjoyed talking to their VP who was there manning the booth.
 |
| They were $0.10 to $2.00 each! |
We also some some very well painted Tyranids in a very rich brown scheme (sorry, I didn't take a picture, I appreciated the art too much!) and some very interesting design ideas for some other Tyranids. I saw some Zoanthropes with Warrior heads and back fins that looked very cool, and some other 'nids that were painted to look like the Aliens from AVP which were black with neon green ichor.
I also picked up another box of Mawloc parts because it was untouched and on sale for 35% off. Who doesn't need more monstrous creature parts, after all?
Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)