This tutorial covers making one Hive Guard model. If you want to make additional models, you will need to double (or triple, etc) your sprue pieces. I recommend putting the sprue for each final model in to its own sealable bag. This is so you do not mix your piles of pieces up as you go. As a note: I am relatively impatient as I go through the throes of creating things like this. You will find I have little, to no, overnight set times or anything in that nature. Most of my stuff is 5 minute set time, at maximum. If you do not have the tools I mention in the tools section, this will take you much longer (I promise).
I highly recommend you read through the tutorial at least once before using it.
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| Two Completed Hive Guard |
Materials Needed (Per Model):
2 Tyranid Warrior torsos
1 Tyranid Warrior tail
1 40 mm base
1 Tyranid Warrior head
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| Pieces needed. |
3 Warrior legs
-1 Left
-1 Right
-1 Thigh (or other sprue to be used as the neck)
2 Warrior rending arms (or scything talons)
-1 Left
-1 Right
1 Large Gun
-Left and Right sides
1 Small Gun (to be mounted on the large gun as a sight)
1 Carnifex shoulder plate
Other Materials:
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| Two Part Epoxy |
2-Part Epoxy (5 min set)
Mixing Surface for Epoxy (disposable)
-I use a paper towel and toothpick
Toothpicks
-Also used for applying Epoxy to small areas
Clay sculpting tools
-For sculpting the grey putty
-Carved popsicle sticks and toothpicks may also work
Newspaper or butcher's paper for protecting your work area
Miscellaneous sprue
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| Miscellaneous Sprue |
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| Plumber's Putty |
Tools:
Dremel Tool
-Shaped Carving Bit (misc)
-Diamond grit filing bits (misc)
Wire Cutters, flush cutters, and/or cuticle trimmers (I have them all)
-Used for cutting/trimming sprue to shape
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| Some items not shown |
-For when changing bits on the dremel is inconvenient
Needle nose pliers or dremel torque
-For changing the bit on the dremel tool
Latex/Non-latex gloves
-If you have sensitive skin
Breathing mask
-to help with the fumes
Protective Eye wear
-To protect your eyes from sprue shrapnel
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Location (things your space should have):
Adequate Ventilation
Ample Light
Power Source (for your Dremel tool)
Plenty of work space
Sink with good soap (for getting putty & epoxy off your hands)
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Preparation:
Sort pieces into piles so each model has the correct amount.
Have your tools out and ready within easy reach.
Connections are made using the glue or epoxy of your choice.
Note: If you are doing multiple models, the dry time should be sufficiently short to work continuously.
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Note: I am not going to prompt you to use your protective gear. Use your common sense.
Step 1:
Pieces: 2 Tyranid Warrior torsos
Tools: Epoxy, Snippers, Dremel, toothpicks.
Preparation: The lower torso will need to to have the top middle piece snipped/filed down to make a good fit.
Connection: Connect the two torsos one on top of the other. Glue (I used epoxy for this).
Let Dry.
Notes: In the finished piece, the top back part of the armor of the upper torso will not be visible.
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| Unmodified warrior torso. |
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| Modified armor. |
Step 2:
Pieces: 1 Tyranid Warrior tail, the 'new' torso from Step 1
Tools: Epoxy, toothpicks.
Preparation: None.
Connection: Connect to the lower torso as normal.
Let Dry.
Notes: No other modifications should be necessary.
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| New torso from front. |
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| Alternate view. |
Step 3:
Pieces: 'New' torso + tail from Step 2
Tools: Snippers, dremel, files.
Preparation: Check the line of the torso. You will be snipping/dremeling the sides of the shoulder armor on the lower torso to have it be in line with the rest of the body.
Connection: None.
Notes: The lower torso shoulder armor will be the 'lower' body of the finished Hive Guard. The Carnifex shoulder plate will cover the enter back of the upper torso.
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| Snip the lower shoulder armor. |
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| Then file them smooth. |
Step 4:
Pieces: 'new' torso from Step 3, Carnifex shell.
Tools: Epoxy, toothpicks.
Preparation: Decide how you want the Carnifex shell to fit.
Connection: Epoxy the Carnifex shell to the back of the upper torso.
Let Dry:
Notes: You may need to trim either or both pieces to make a good fit; however, I didn't need to.
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| This is how it should line up. |
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| Back view. |
Step 5:
Pieces: 'New' torso from Step 4, 'neck' sprue.
Tools: Epoxy, toothpicks, snippers, files.
Preparation: Decide how long you want the 'neck' to be, using the head for sizing. You will need to trim it to be more neck-like. You may also need to trim the carapace to let the neck fit properly in the cavity. Do what looks good to you.
Connection: Epoxy the neck in place.
Let Dry:
Notes: Make sure the armor on the head will fit around the carapace nob.
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| Just trim it down. |
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| Most of this will have putty obscuring it, later. |
Step 6:
Pieces: Completed torso from Step 5.
Tools: Grey putty, sculpting tools.
Preparation: Decide how you want the inner areas to look. Following the directions on the putty, break off a piece and work it with your fingers. Then press it into the cracks/gaps of the Carnifex shell where it meets the torso. Just do the cracks at this time.
Connection: None.
Let Dry:
Notes: Take less than you need, and don't be hasty. It sets fairly quickly, but I never had to worry too much about it not being how I wanted it. Just do it a little at a time, filling in each of the areas.
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| Note the areas that are filled in. |
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| It doesn't have to be perfect, you can file it down later. |
Step 7:
Pieces: Completed torso from Step 6.
Tools: Grey putty, sculpting tools.
Preparation: Using grey putty, fill in the upper arm sockets of the upper torso. Make sure to leave an arm socket (upper torso, lower arm socket) available for the gun arms, later. Fill in the upper socket of the lower torso, as well (the gun arms will need the space, and you can attach the rending claws/scything talons to the lower sockets just fine).
Connection: None.
Let Dry:
Notes: This can be done while doing Step 6, above, if desired.
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| Note the upper socket of the lower torso. |
Step 8:
Pieces: Tyranid Warrior Legs, Completed Torso from Step 7.
Tools: Glue of choice, possible snippers/files.
Preparation: Make sure the legs are tipping the torso over further than is normal for the Warrior models. This may require some snipping or filing tools, or just patience while the glue is drying.
Connection: Glue legs to lower section of lower torso.
Let Dry:
Notes: My final model is bent over further than the normal Warrior models. Keep this in mind while positioning the legs.
Step 9:
Pieces: Head, Body from Step 8.
Tools: Grey putty, shaping tools.
Preparation: Decide how you want to position the head.
Connection: I attached a ball of putty to the head, then created a socket to fit over the top of the neck with. This thickened the neck where it meets the head, making it look slightly larger.
Let Dry:
Notes: I don't particularly like how small the heads are, but since I don't have other sprue to work with besides the Carnifex, it's what I'm using. If you happen to have something else that works better for you, go with it.
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| I didn't get a good picture of it while unpainted. |
Step 10:
Pieces: Large Gun, small Gun.
Tools: Snipper, files, Grey putty, shapers.
Preparation: Small gun: @ the wrist, trimm off the lower claw, cables and arm socket. Large gun: Snip the top of the large gun so that the small gun fits on top of it nicely - trim the forward sights. Return to the small gun, round it off until it fits nicely.
Connection: Fill in the gaps with the grey putty. Shape or file as needed.
Let Dry:
Notes: Left to creative interpretation.
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| Trim to fit. |
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| Fill in with putty. |
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At this point I started painting the models, because it's rather difficult to paint under the gun once it has been attached. Just make sure to leave the sockets free of paint.
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Step 11:
Pieces: Rending Claws / Scything Talons, Body from Step 10.
Tools: Glue of choice.
Preparation: Decide what position you want the rending claws in. (You will need to take into account the position the model will be in, the position of the gun, and where the legs are.)
Connection: Glue them in place.
Let Dry:
Notes: You really won't have a lot of choices. I had to put them basically right over the legs.
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| Secondary claws. |
Step 12:
Pieces: Gun, other arm, Body from Step 11. [see picture above]
Tools: Epoxy, toothpicks.
Preparation: You may want to glue the gun to the arm, and let it sit until it is glued, but still malleable. Then attach the two together to the torso, then hold it in place until all three are set.
Connection: Attach gun and arm to socket in upper torso under the Carnifex carapace.
Let Dry:
Notes: Really try to take into account how the gun is lining up. It may take a lot more epoxy than you think it will to keep it stable over time. (This took 2-3 applications of epoxy to hold the weight of the gun). Just be patient, and maybe find something the right height to prop the gun up with. =)
Step 13:
Pieces: Base, Model.
Tools: Epoxy, toothpicks.
Preparation: Decide which position you want your Hive Guard model glued in.
Connection: Glue feet to base.
Let Dry:
Notes: I used custom, resin cast bases for these models. I do not know how well balanced these guys are on regular bases.
Step 14:
Pieces: Finished model.
Tools: Paints, etc.
Preparation: Apply paint, finishing touches, and modify bases.
Connection: None.
Let Dry:
Notes: You're done!
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And we are done!
Whew.
Happy Modding!
-Mad Doc Kala
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| Finished Hive Guard Brood. |
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